August 1: Normal Monday. The package was supposed to arrive the previous Friday, but unfortunately, there was a delay. Now, I’m in the middle of an updated delivery window, anticipation has mounted, faded and mounted again. I’m excited for the first sound of a delivery truck – it triggers a push and pull between excitement for a new watch and bracing myself for the disappointment of the wrong type of truck; Maybe a neighbor’s rental U-Haul. This truck is FedEx; My package is coming via UPS. An hour or so later, another truck’s course is signaled by the familiar sound we all know: the truck’s engine revving, its boxy metal sides shaking, its roll-up door slamming on itself, all of them merging into a crash as it thunders away. The devastating speedbumps of my street. I look out the bay window and sure enough, the deep brown sign of the United Parcel Service pulls up in front of the house. I go to the door, open it, and greet the driver (surprise him, really) as he walks down the aisle. It’s a bigger box than I expected. After all, it is not Just a clock The package includes the watch in a presentation box, a pair of Chelsea boots, a duffel, an extra strap and a watch pouch. It’s the result of a collaboration between Tutima and Los Angeles-based leathermaker Jorge Esquivel, and better than its packaging is the watch’s full name: Tutima x Esquivel Compass Limited Edition Patria Dual Time.
You have to understand that unboxing a set like this is a completely different experience than unboxing just a watch. The leather goods in the Tutima x Esquivel Compass Edition are all handcrafted, with the boots made to order for the buyer. Only 25 sets of these will be offered. I can’t quite fathom the experience of actually buying, receiving and opening the box, but imagine getting a package with three times the unboxing experience (duffel, boots, watch; extra strap and pouch). same box as the watch). However, the first thing that hits you is the seductive scent of all leather. Fine leather, hand cut, hand stitched, hand made. It was the best unboxing I’ve ever experienced. I expect nothing less from these two brands. Jorge Esquivel is known for his handmade shoes and other leather goods (product copy, tell me my memory from my brief and wonderful time running an internet and style blog). Tutima is a small German brand based in Glashütte that has formidable neighbors but manages to stand out. Choosing the Patria Dual Time as the watch for this collection is very interesting to me. Esquivel’s design aesthetic is decisive, but the Patria Dual Time is part of Tutima’s most traditional collection. As I quickly discovered, the juxtaposition only serves to elevate both the watch and the leather goods.
If you thought the Tutima Patria Dual Time included in the set was one of the brand’s current models, thrown in a box of leather goods, you’d be a little off. Tutima’s complicated Patria models are usually only available in precious metals, but for this collaboration, the brand has issued a Dual Time in stainless steel. The less formal steel helps bridge the aforementioned gap between the edge of the leather and the elegance of the watch. The 42mm case is polished throughout and has a smoothness thanks to its rounded silhouette and smooth transitions between angles. In fact, the only element of the case design that can be described as remotely angular or sharp or crisp are the crown guards, which emerge organically from the case and cradle the grooved onion crown. The pull-out crown has a great feel and the closing action is very smooth. As one would expect from a watch like this, the water resistance is only 50m, but that should be plenty for most wearing occasions.
However, wearing it is not as straightforward as one might think. The 21mm leather straps – brown wraparound and black Nato – are beautiful, but the decision to include two pass-through straps is a bit redundant. I much prefer a standard two-piece with a wraparound. Also, the straps are no less than 4mm for the 11.2mm thickness of the case. This makes the watch stand tall on the wrist no matter what you do. However, while I found the NATO unforgiving in its height, the wraparound (once I figured it out) was surprisingly comfortable, and the angle at which it sits gave it a bit of driver-watch utility.
Underneath the domed sapphire crystal, the Tutima x Esquivel Compass Limited Edition Patria Dual Time’s opaline silver white dial is a masterclass in refinement. Despite the coolness typical of silver dials, it has a touch of warmth at times, perhaps brought out by the gold-faced indices. There are two real standouts on the dial. First is the handset. The lance-style hands are handcrafted in 18k rose gold, with polished tops and a very delicate rough finish on the beveled edges. The finish isn’t immediately apparent when looking at the watch, but with its raw look, it’s another element that serves to complete the feel of the entire collection. The second feature is the namesake, dual-time subdial. Compared to many modern dual time watches – think the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time or the arty Hermès Slim GMT – the Patria Dual Time sticks to its official guns with a subdial with radial grooving, simple printed hour markers and a blued lance hand. It displays the second 12-hour time. The most interesting thing about the dual time function is how it is set. Instead of an additional pusher, the dual time is set by the crown, but not by an additional position. When the local time (main hands) is set forward, the 12-hour hand is advanced; When local time is reversed, the 12-hour hand is in place. To set the 12-hour hand, go to where you want it, then adjust the local time by turning the hands back. It’s not very intuitive, and even when you get it, it takes a bit more thinking than simple dual time or GMT. With things like that, though, it’s a set-it-and-forget-it issue, akin to bracelet adjustments, but in this case with a little less frustration and the benefit of an unobtrusive case profile.
Underneath the sapphire crystal is the Tutima T 619 movement with the namesake compass hand-engraved on its surface. Although the engraving can reinforce the partnership (a compass can be found in every element of the set), it prevents a perfectly clear view of the movement, which is a shame. The finish here is gorgeous, with a gold-plated German-style mainplate and open-worked balance bridge with sharp striping and a rail featuring screw-mounted jewels in anglaze, polished screw heads and gold chatons. The Sinus Click spring is also finished to the same standards. What’s more, Tutima says the finishing is done by hand at the Tutima Glashut factory. Made with demonstrable pride in Germany, the T 619 has 190 parts with 20 jewels, a free-spring Breguet hairspring and a 65-hour power reserve at 21,600 vph. If you weren’t convinced of the German watchmaker’s ability to produce on par with some other brands in its region, along with the wide offering of sporty tool watches you’re familiar with with Tutima, the T 619 should prove it all. The proof you need (for more proof, check out the brand’s Homage Minute Repeater).
I am surprised that the Compass collection does not mention leather goods. This isn’t the first example of a brand partnering with a leather goods company (recall Halbot and Berluti, which just made an LVMH leather watch), but it’s definitely one of the organic collaborations. Jorge Esquivel often commemorated milestones with watches, and one of his first was the burgundy-dial Tutima. As Tutima says, after hearing about Esquivel’s love of watches and history with the brand, the idea for a collaboration soon came to mind. If you decide to pick up one of the 25 Tutima x Esquivel Compass Limited Editions, you’re in for a treat. Using all-natural watchet leather, Esquivel offers an overnight duffel bag, a fold-over watch pouch, a pair of its made-to-order Boswell Chelsea boots, and the aforementioned straps. Everything is handmade at Esquivel House, an atelier in Los Angeles, including hand-stitching and hand-staining all leather with rich brown and dark accents (including the soles of the shoes). There’s no denying its beauty, and while I’m no expert, the craftsmanship is amazing.
As I see it, there are two ways to contribute. What happens when a brand teams up with Alain Silberstein leads to the redesign of a watch, an aesthetic injection that creates a model that a watch brand could not create themselves. And then there’s a more subtle approach, where the watch can be accessorized or tweaked, but the watch stays within the brand’s design language (think Oris x Momotaro collab). As discussed, the Tutima x Esquivel Compass Limited Edition is not the first time a watch brand has collaborated with a leather brand, but I will reiterate that this may be the best result from such a collaboration. The watch feels like part of the regular Patria lineup (maybe we’ll see a steel dual time soon?), but considered as a whole set, it stands out as something special. No tackiness or gimmicks here, just some beautifully crafted leather goods and a beautiful watch that strikes a balance between contemporary and traditional design. Unsurprisingly, this is the most affordable way to get the Tutima’s dual time complication: the standard rose gold model costs $2,600 more and certainly comes with extra leather goods. The Tutima x Esquivel Compass Limited Edition Set has been priced $16,900 USD. You can learn more from Esquivel’s website.
> Brand: Tutima
> Model: Tutima x Esquivel Compass Limited Edition Patria Dual Time
>Price: $16,900 USD (Including two belts, watch pouch, Chelsea boots and duffel)
>Size: 43mm diameter, 11.2mm height, 21mm lug width
> When the reviewer personally wears it: When I’m a bit trendy and want a bit of creative contrast in my wardrobe
>Friend we recommend this first: A venture capitalist with a penchant for western style
> Best feature of the watch: The hands, the finish of the movement, the luxurious smell of leather
> Worst feature of the watch: Thick pass-through leather straps make it a long wearer, 21mm lugs limit options for most, unusual dual-time adjustment