The Pasha de Cartier collection has a fascinating backstory involving the fabulously wealthy Pasha El Glouie of Marrakech and his request to Louis Cartier to make a gold waterproof watch with enough panache to accompany him on his countless social engagements. The only twist in this story is that the alleged 1932 model never materialized (see below). However, one fact we can confirm is that the designer behind the 1985 Pasha collection was Gerald Genta. Faithful to the tradition of Cartier’s shaped cases, the Pasha plays with the geometry of a square within a circle and is simple. Thanks to its cabochon-capped crown protector attached to a short chain. Among the 2022 releases was a surprising and less publicized version, which proved even more surprising in the dark. We take a closer look at this Pasha de Cartier skeleton ADLC.
The Pasha, as we know it today, materialized in 1985 and was Cartier’s response to the luxury men’s sports watch. With most dress watches and shaped cases, Cartier missed the sporty, water resistant model. It is no surprise that the design of this watch fell to Gerald Genta of the Hour. After all, as the man behind Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, the first luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet in 1972, followed by the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the commission was a perfect fit for him. Inspired by the 1942 waterproof model with a protective grid on the dial, the Pasha’s round case with a square minute track features a distinctive cabochon protector on the crown attached to a short chain and elegant Louis Cartier Vendome lugs. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the 1985 Pasha was large for its day (38 mm) and appeared in countless iterations until it quietly ceased production in 2011. Refreshed in 2020, Pasha is enjoying the good life – a variety of watches for men and women.
Making the case for the Pasha of Marrakech
Pasha de Cartier appeared in 1985 as a full-fledged watch collection. Inspired by the lines of the original 1932 model created by Louis Cartier for the Pasha de Marrakech, Gerald Genta restored the Pasha to its intriguing design details in the 1980s. However, there was one thing missing: the actual watch.
While many watch writers don’t buy the exotic origin story behind the creation of the Pasha watch, which was commissioned by a very wealthy Pasha of Marrakech in the early 1930s as an elegant waterproof wristwatch, there are some facts that prove its existence. After all, Louis Cartier is accustomed to requests for bespoke models from wealthy clients, and its specialty points in that direction.
Thami El Gloui (1879-1956), Pasha of Marrakech, aka Lord of the Atlas, Black Sultan and Gazelle of the Sun, went down in Moroccan history as a traitor for siding with the French colonialists and helping to overthrow the Sultan. Mohammed V. El Glaoui amassed great wealth (almonds, saffron, olives, mining, etc.) during his lifetime and was known for his extravagant lifestyle and famous friends, even entertaining Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin at his luxurious palace Dar El Glaoui. His fascination with Western culture even earned him an invitation to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, although she did not accept his lavish gifts. Endowed with all manner of distinctions by the French government, El Glaoui was a true Francophile and fascinated by all things French.
On one of his many Paris shopping trips, El Glaoui met Louis Cartier and asked him for a very special watch: a watch that looked smart enough for his countless social appointments and lavish living, but that could withstand the elements. the pool If the story is to be believed, this model represents the first waterproof watch for Cartier. Not the first waterproof watch on the market, Rolex achieved that distinction with its 1926 Oyster, but certainly the first watertight watch for the French brand. In 1932, Pasha got his watch. Reflecting the sleek, smooth silhouettes of the prevailing Art Deco style, the one-off solid gold Pasha is said to have a round case with a thick bezel, a contrasting square railway minute track in the center, large Arabic numerals, and a protective grill. On the dial and an interesting screw-down cap attaches the crown to a small chain that keeps it from falling off.
light and dark
More is hidden in between traditional Pasha models from 2022, this Pasha de Cartier Skeleton ADLC features a fun Pasha de Cartier grill as well as a removable grill. There is another skeleton model in the collection, but it has a luminous polished case and does not feature the magical blue glow-in-the-dark routine associated with this particular model. Although it’s also made in stainless steel, it has a black brushed ADLC bezel that stands out from its siblings with its darker, more technical, contemporary personality.
As the pasha, the round case – 41 mm in diameter and 10.45 mm high – features the signature sapphire cabochon-tipped crown protector and chain and classic Vendome-style bars with rounded Clouse de Paris tips designed and patented by Louis Cartier in 1934. Brushed case like contrast with broad sloping bezel, polished Clous de Paris lug tips, crown, chain and clasp. As with other Pasha models, the chained crown protector hides a small plate that can be engraved.
As with Gérald Genta’s original design for the Pasha de Cartier in 1985, four large Arabic numerals contrast with Cartier’s long-standing tradition of Roman numerals and are engraved on the main-plate. Chosen in an Art Deco font, large Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock are indicated by Cartier’s signature sword-shaped hour and minute hands. A square track for the minutes, suspended in the center of the dial, is also part of the bridges, contrasting with the thick rounded sloping bezel.
Genta’s square-inside-a-circle concept is even more evident in this skeletonized model, and shines with Super-LumiNova in light blue. Applied to the four Arabic numerals, indexes, square minute track and hands, the Pasha Skeleton puts on an impressive display in the dark.
Allowing light to flood in from the front and back, the movement seems to float in space and has brushed finishes to match the suspended elements on the dial.
Turning the watch over reveals a large skeletonized rotor and bridges that echo the shape of the square minute track. Equipped with the automatic caliber 9624MC, a skeletonized version of the 1904MC, the movement has double barrels for a 48-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800vph.
All Pasha models from 2020 forward feature an invisible mechanism that allows you to change the bracelet or strap with the Cartier QuickSwitch system. This Pasha is delivered with two straps, one in black and the other in dark gray alligator, which can be changed using a button on the back side of the lugs. A simple click with no tools required releases the bracelet in seconds.
Part of the Pasha de Cartier Skeleton ADLC (Ref. CRWHPA0017) general collection and retails EUR 28,200 Or CHF 26,400 (including tax). For more information and online orders, feel free to contact cartier.com.