Skeleton or openworked watches have always enjoyed a certain popularity and range from ultra high-end to accessible watches. There’s something particularly fascinating about discovering what’s beating inside a watch (even more so for those new to mechanical watches), although fully exposed dials can lead to cluttered displays. For this reason, there is a type of watch that sits in the middle, often referred to as “open heart” models. Me the do The clock is exposed on the dial. Using the successful Gentleman Powermatic 80 as a base, Tissot is now releasing a new edition.
The Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80, the watch we’ve reviewed extensively and pictured here, is easily considered one of the best offerings in the EUR sub-1000 category for an all-rounder, elegant and yet robust watch. Well-proportioned and elegant for business use, resistant enough even for the weekend, with a sophisticated and powerful movement (some models also include silicon balance or COSC certification) and overall impressively executed considering the price, it’s a first entry into the world of mechanical watches or breaking the bank. A no-brainer for those who want a serious watch for daily use.
There are many variations around the Tissot Gentleman concept, including available quartz versions, solid gold accents or two-tone models with attractive colored dials, including a cool green edition. Now, Tissot brings the first deep evolution with a slightly different movement and as a pièce de résistance, a partially open dial reveals some parts of the movement, in the so-called “open heart” style – shared by various people. Brands, Frederic Constant or Zenith with Chronomaster Open are the most important.
The concept of these partially open dials is not the most mainstream, as it lies between the classic full dial and the more showy, fully openworked movement. However, it fills a gap in the collections, allowing some parts of the movement to be seen, clarity is not greatly affected and these watches have a certain elegance. There have been many open heart Tissot watches in the past, but the new Gentleman Powermatic 80 Open Heart offers much more. Indeed, instead of the traditional round opening at 12 o’clock on the balance, it gives a little more with an 8-shaped cutout that sits between 9 and 12 o’clock (a bit like a zenith) and also reveals the escapement. Personally, I’m not entirely a fan of such partially open watches, but then again it has some charm.
The rest of the watch is the same as before except for the dial: 40mm diameter, reasonable 11.50mm height, well-executed case in brushed and polished stainless steel, classic and timeless design that doesn’t go out of fashion and enough overall resistance to make this watch an all-rounder. The top is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and water-resistance is rated at 100 meters, which is good enough for jumping in the pool or even having fun underwater.
Three editions of the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Open Heart have been released, for now, all worn on a 3-link stainless steel bracelet, with re-brushed and polished surfaces, and closed with a 3-fold butterfly clasp. The differences are in dial color, which is available in dark gray with silver-colored hands/markers, dark blue again with silvered accents, and silver with gold-colored hands and markers. Leather straps haven’t been featured yet, but they’ll definitely come later.
Inside the case is the ETA Powermatic movement, a robust evolution of the 2824 architecture extended with an 80h power reserve. Here, we are talking about caliber 80.601, which has 25 jewels and beats at 3Hz. A significant difference from the classic gentleman with solid dials, this movement is not fitted with a silicon hairspring.
Watches from the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Open Heart collection will be available from the brand and retailers in September and are priced at EUR 875. For more details, please visit www.tissotwatches.com.